Chill like the Snow Monkeys

Posing for my camera

I must admit, I am not really an avid animal lover. Other than the whale sharks in the Philippines for which I recently took two flights and a van ride just to snorkel with (it was an amazing experience by the way!), I have never travelled long distances for any other creature.

So I am a little surprised at myself for deciding to take a 3.5 hours trip* from Nozawa Onsen where I was snowboarding, to a relatively difficult-to-reach place called Jidokudani.....just to see a bunch of monkeys. Well, actually these were really not 'just a bunch of monkeys', but I do have to attribute my decision to embark on this leg of the journey largely to a guy named Michael Helbig**. I don't know him personally, but his wonderful series of photographs taken of the Snow Monkeys of Japan inspired me enough to want to capture the fascinating behaviour of these Japanese Macaque myself.

Munching on some flea I suppose...

The Snow Monkeys are so named because they reside in a place that is covered in snow for 1/3 of the year due to its high elevation of 850m. The area of Jigokudani, located in the valley of the Yokoyu River that flows from Shiga Kogen (also the largest ski resort in the northern part of Nagano prefecture), is also known as Hell's Valley because of the steep cliffs and hotspring.

Unfortunately, of all times, I was at Jigokudani at the start of the remaining 2/3 year where there is no more snow. The best time to visit them would be December to February since capturing these animated animals (note: not all animals are animated) in the most scenic snow environment would have been highly rewarding. Nevertheless I met a few nature photographers who had come from Australia and Europe to observe and photograph the amazing behavior of these highly intellectual animals, so that humbled my grand ambitions to an appreciation of nature for what it is at any point in time.

To me, there were 2 most interesting things about these Snow Monkeys. First, they resemble Japanese in one very particular way - They love to lounge. In hotsprings. In fact, they have an outdoor onsen all to themselves at the valley which they soak in everyday. Well, to me that sure doesn't sound anything like hell!

Who says only people know how to enjoy life??

And....these monkeys sure know how to pose!! One brochure introducing these monkeys read, "Photography of the monkeys by camera or video is possible. The monkeys do not mind camera flashes." Well, at least that sounds more obliging than some people I have come across. Judging from some of the pictures I have seen and taken, I believe these clever animals knew exactly what we humans were there at their habitat for. Rather than feeling intruded, they have decided to be totally nonchalant about our presence...at times even sparing us the agony of TRYING to capture their expressions at the right moments by, well, just simply staring right into our camera lens. Now, THAT is good modelling skills indeed! :)

Taking a nap after a dip in the hotspring...what a life!

If I have a chance, I would come back in the snow season to do this again. Meantime, I need to learn from these monkeys and just CHILL!

* The 3.5 hrs ride included a 1.5 hr bus from Nozawa Onsen to Nagano City, followed by a 1 hour train ride to Yudanaka & Shiga Onsen, and a 45min bus ride to Jigokudani.

* The website of the photo gallery is http://giphsub.smugmug.com/gallery/3281434_n4nnb#241636160_WA8Wg

Stepping back in time to Old Japan..

A family from the Edo period..or at least, looking like it! :)

I have found a gem in Japan. A place called Yudanaka & Shibu Onsen at Yamanouchi town in Nagano. If I have to choose a place to truly feel like you are stepping back into old Japan, this would probably be one of the best.

Yamanouchi Town is located in the northeastern part of Nagano Prefecture, and comprises of three main tourists areas: Shiga Kogen heights (ski resort), Kita-Shiga Kogen Heights (ski resort) and Yudanaka & Shibu Onsen. The Onsen was found about 1,300 years ago by a Japanese monk, Gyoki and is a well-known hot spring resort among locals.

I was stopping by Yudanaka Onsen on the way to my hunt for the Snow Monkeys the next day. Knowing that I was going to stay at Kokuya, a ryokan with 400 years of history here made it a stay that I was really looking forward to. Kokuya ryokan (http://www.ichizaemon/) is the only one in the area with 6 different 100% natural hot springs and still uses the same pure hot spring water for the last 400 years. The ryokan’s present master is 16th generation and the Okami-san* (wife of the master who manages the ryokan, whom I had chats with about the history of the area and the ryokan), has devoted her life to mastering the skills and art of managing the ryokan.

Kokuya Ryokan on the right

There is deep-rootedness and preservation of Japanese tradition in this place. Everything along the main Shibu Onsen street brings you back to the past…to somewhere 300 years ago. It is almost natural to feel like you are in the Edo period. Locals and visitors alike were going to the public onsen baths and strolling along on the stone-paved streets in their yukata (simplified kimono) and Geta slippers (Japanese wooden footgear) just like how people who lived here did hundreds of years ago.

Walking out after a a dip in the public onsen

The tablet pass from Kokuya that is used to gain access to the public onsens in the town (looks like a tablet of authority from the emporer!)

The old architecture of ryokans and houses were also impressive. The ryokan just opposite of Kokuya (whose beautiful night light-up view I had the fortune to see from my room balcony while sipping on my Sapporo beer) - Kanaguya (http://www.kanaguya.com/), had managed to preserve its original form since 1758. The pictures outside the ryokan showed people from the long past, in their kimonos and hairstyles of that period, posing at exactly the same spots of the ryokan that were visible to anyone standing on the street looking at it now. This ryokan is a national heritage asset, and I hope it would still be the same 250 years later.

The beautiful Kanaguya ryokan built in 1758

Wanting to be part of the past, I decided that I would go out and stroll and have yakitori in a small little izakaya in my yukata. But first, I had to choose one out of 7 hotspring baths within Kokuya. Of course I chose the outdoor hotspring (Issa) which allowed me to do some star-gaze while soaking in the onsen (oh yes, of course!). It was a little difficult to tear myself away from that, but wrapping myself in yukata and with my toes in tabi socks and Geta slippers, I stepped out of the ryokan onto the street. Taking a deep breath of the crisp cool spring air while feeling warm from the onsen, I felt such bliss it was almost difficult to stop smiling to myself. I took my time to stroll up and down the street, listening to the tapping my slippers made on the stone-pavements. Being able to enjoy life the same way as the ancestors did (albeit just for one night), in an old ryokan and cobbled streets as the ancestors were in, provided such a transient interaction with the past that it was a truly unforgettable meeting with history heart to heart :)

* The okami's role corresponds to that of a general manager in a Western hotel. In many cases, the okami is the owner of the ryokan or the wife of the owner, which means that the okami, as the representative of the ryokan, attends to all external affairs such as business matters and cooperation with the local community (Quote: Japan Ryokan Association)