Showing posts with label temples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label temples. Show all posts

Saturday, April 11, 2009

“FOCUS, and then you will be able to relax…”

Now, that definitely sounds like an oxymoron to me.

At least it was when I first heard it from Reverend Takafumi Kawakami (“Rev.”), while we were seated cross-legged from each other on our separate small cushions. The meditation hall was quiet….it was 9am in a spring morning Kyoto and the air outside was crisp and cool. I was taking this Zen meditation session very seriously. Still, I couldn’t help but ask Rev. in English, “Ermm, really? Is that possible?”


Reverend Takafumi meditating with me at Shunko-In Temple, Kyoto

Now first you got to know a little about Rev. Takafumi. If he was any stricter, I think I would have been hit on the head by the keisaku (a piece of wood used to whack meditators for losing focus or falling asleep, or in my case for being too inquisitive). Fortunately, Rev. is quite atypical of a Zen Abbot although he might seem like a stiff-necked serious guy from this picture (well that was because I asked him to pose…). Probably in his mid-thirties, Rev is the Vice-Abbot of Shunko-in Temple in Kyoto. His family had been caretakers of the Shunko-in Temple in Kyoto for centuries, and he would one day become his family’s 5th generation Chief Abbot here. Despite this heavy duty background, Rev. was actually a light-hearted guy. Educated in the U.S., Rev. was not only forward looking with his programs to educate foreigners on Zen monastery architecture and meditation, he very much looked like any hip city guy after ‘official’ working hours in his jeans and bubble jacket! Best of all, he believes that meditation is for relaxation, not torture! :)


Being introduced to the halls of the temple...fascinating

It might also be appropriate at this juncture to talk a little about Zen Buddhism, which is said to have come to Japan from China and flourished in Japan in the 14th century. The austere discipline and practical approach of Zen made it the Buddhism of the medieval Japanese military class. It is easy to categorize Zen Buddhism as a religion or a philosophy, but dig deeper and one would realize it is neither. Zen Buddhism is an experience…big on ‘intuitive understanding’ and recognition of the original nature of things, rather than on intellectual reasoning and philosophizing. It is concerned with what actually IS, rather than what we think or feel about what it is. It is concerned with the present, the Now. According to Rev., we should all experience less stress in our lives by concentrating our tasks based on what we have at present, unhampered by past failures nor the uncertainties of the future. Now this sounds easy enough, but how do we reinforce this approach and be aware of the present?

Simple. Through Zen meditation. And I had chosen to learn about it here within the compounds of the huge Myoshinji Temple in the northwest part of Kyoto, where I had also decided to stay 1 night the day before. This is the perfect place to learn about Zen meditation since Kyoto was one of the key places where Zen Buddhism flourished and several Zen monasteries here had become educational centers.

Zen meditation practices singular concentration on the breathing movement. If you think about it, our breathing really IS the perfect representative of the Now. We breathe all the time, all the ‘Nows’. Of course, like all other things that we take for granted in our lives, we never pay attention to it. By concentrating on breathing though, we are able to bring ourselves closer to an awareness of the present.

Well, up to this point all these made sense to me…I shouldn’t have any problem. But getting “there” with Zen meditation is not as easy as how Rev. made it sound to be. He lit a joss stick (used to measure time, not as an offering to any god or ancestor, thank goodness), hit the wooden blocks three times and rang a bell to signal the start of a meditation session. I was so aware of my concentration on breathing itself, that I couldn’t REALLY concentrate. I know it sounds confusing, but it’s true. My eyes were closed, but my eyeballs were roaming in all directions with random images and thoughts flashing before me…those of the bird chirping outside, of my posture, my breakfast, my lunch, my existence (ok, not in order of importance). I had to sit and keep my back as straight as possible while drawing in my breaths and exhaling them out. After the first joss stick was almost burnt and I had made my first attempt at meditation, Rev. looked me seriously in the eye and said, “I see your head nodding downwards…" followed by my declaration that no, I was not asleep. "You must sit up straighter. To sit straighter, imagine that your belly button is being pushed upwards….”. And to think that being a ballet dancer, I would have no problem whatsoever with posture.

And so I started my 2nd session, concentrating on my breathing and trying to imagine my belly button moving upwards from my belly to my abdomen…and then upwards somemore..up the abdomen..to...
And then, all of a sudden, I snapped back and returned to concentrate on my breathing. It was hard.

The joss-stick is meant to measure time! No cheating now...

Halfway through the second session though, I was starting to roam less and was concentrating better on just a few things (like my breathing, and still, the birds chirping outside!). Quite strangely the more I listened to my breathing, the less I concentrated on my concentration, and I actually began to…relax. I wasn’t even conscious that I was starting to relax. I guess that was the point. That was the answer to the oxymoron. Now perhaps I am starting to understand what Rev. meant by relaxing through meditation, through a one-minded focus on breathing.

Of course I am a long way away from mastering Zen meditation, but the short sessions helped me experience the idea of being singularly focused on the present. Surprisingly, it somehow gave an invigorating effect…a ‘can-do’ attitude to face life (for that day at least!). I had been looking forward to this, and I must say that practicing meditation under the direct teachings of a Zen abbot must be the best personal encounter of my inner self in Kyoto and with Kyoto, and perhaps with the underlying spirit of Zen.

View of its Zen garden from the corridor of Shunko-in Temple

Friday, April 10, 2009

Kyoto - experience the extra-ordinary. But first, the temples...


Shrine at the Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto

Kyoto, now where do I even start? This place is simply magic. There were many things I set out to find in Kyoto, and I found them all. And the surprising thing? The list did not include temples. Well, okay..maybe just one.

Undoubtedly, Kyoto is famous with more than 2,500 big and small temples, shrines & castles. My taxi driver gave me the exact number, and I remembered it as something like 2,670.....although it could really be 2,760. But, you get the point. Assuming you target just to see the top 1% of these temples and you visit 3 temples a day, it would still take you 8 days to complete them by which time you would end up with "temple fatigue", and nothing left in you to explore what I call the real magic of Kyoto.

To be sure, there are some really amazingly unique temples in Kyoto which I would include in my shortlist for anyone going there for the first time. The shortlist is based on my own experience when I last visited Kyoto. If there was something special that I still recall now about any of the temples I had visited, that temple would be worth the visit for you. The others are probably going to escape your memory like they did mine, so don't bother.

My favorite temples in Kyoto, and why I love them are listed here (in order of preference):

1) Kiyomizu Temple (meaning 'Pure Water Temple'). Kiyomizu was the only temple I re-visited during this trip...I love it for its spaciousness. Beautiful scenery during sakura season with a famous huge wooden vendara overlooking the city. You can taste the spring water below the terrance...cool..:) The walk towards the Temple along Higashiyama Street itself is a festive exploration into little shops and eateries, which just might set you back a little longer than you thought!

2) Sanjusangendo Temple. This one is sure to stun you to a stop for admiration when you enter the Sanjusangendo, which means a hall with 33 bays. To the buddhists, the number 33 is sacred as they believe that Buddha disguised himself in 33 forms to save mankind. What would stun you would be the impressive 1,001 carved wooden statutes of the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy standing on the 33 bays, all of the same height. Too bad pictures can't be taken!

3) Nijo Castle. This castle was built by the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, in 1603, as a luxurious fortified residence. I like the Nijo Castle for the intriguing way certain features were built-in to the architecture that conjures images of ninjas sneaking in and out of the castle in the dark. The most fascinating feature is the nightingale floorings, which are special floorboards that creak and sound like nightingale when trod upon in the castle corridors. This serves to protect the Shogun from enemies or intruders (in addition to the already heavy defense of moat and stone walls, which shows just how much he thinks he is being loved). As if that is not enough, the nightingale floors have hidden extensions within them for bodyguards to ambush against enemies. How mysterious!

4) Kinkakuji Temple. Guidebooks describe this temple as beautiful, but I would prefer to describe it more as gaudy with its famous gold-leaf covered pavilion. It's like seeing someone adorn with nothing but a gold color gown and gold jewelry all over. The huge mirror pond does serve to soften the gaudiness, but the interesting thing part about Kinkakuji is not so much the gold-leaf pavilion as it is the architecture style. The first floor of the temple (which actually used to be a Shogun residence from 1397 - 1419) was built in Heian noble style, the 2nd floor Samurai style and the 3rd zen temple style. How the 3 styles decide to come together and be clothed in gold leaf is already a question you should come to find out the answer for.

5) The Zen rock garden at Daisen-In Temple (located within the larger Daitokuji Temple). Staring at rocks does not immediately seem an exciting thing to do. But somehow, a Zen rock garden seem to have a tranquilizing effect on even the most hurried minds. Maybe it is the act of sipping a cup of freshly brewed green tea while getting lost in the circles, lines and small mounts of rocks (reminds me of those 3D drawings). Or maybe it is the presence in this environment that suddenly creates an awareness to the Spirit of Zen, which emphasizes on living according to Nature. The garden was made about 500 years ago by the founding Zen abbot and is a 3D replicate of monochrome landscape paintings. Unless you take it as literally staring at rocks, chances are you would love the calming effect of a Zen rock garden and ask for a 2nd cup of tea :)

So there, that's my top 5 choices of temples to hop to in Kyoto. Hundreds of guidebooks write on temples in Kyoto, so it's a topic I would leave to the experts in this area. What I want to do is embark over the next blogs on the other extraordinary experiences in Kyoto.

Those that would leave you just a little bit more Japanese than before you came :)